Look Inside My Kit

Here we are in August and production work is beginning to open up in New York City. Which means, I get to go back to work!

There has been a lot of anxiety brewing within the professional beauty community on how to safely get back to work. For one, we have to work in such close proximity to our clients, so social distancing is not really an option for us. Two, there is such a limited amount of information pertaining to safety industry standards that we should be implementing for work in the new normal.

But we’re makeup artists, so problem solving is part of our job description, right? I have done the dance of late night research sessions, speaking with fellow industry professionals, sanitation and sterilization classes/certifications, and breathing in and out of a paper bag (haha). Only one thing seems to be consistent across the board - as we learn more about the nature of COVID-19, we’ll have to adjust our methods and our approach to how we service our clients. That, and wear a freaking mask!

First things first - whenever I am approached for a gig, I make sure that the client or production crew can accommodate the extra time I will need to properly clean, disinfect and sanitize my work station, tools, and products. Given the current climate, this is usually not an issue but is extremely important to bring attention to. Proper sanitation takes time, especially when accounting for proper contact time (the amount of time it takes for your disinfectants to fully sanitize).

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When I first arrive on set (with my mask on), the first things I pull out of my kit are the things that do exactly this. I have a pouch that contains disposable gloves, Clorox wipes, 70% alcohol, extra hand sanitizer, and disposable station mats. By having these readily available, it minimizes any contamination of my kit because I can disinfect my work station and talent chair right when I get to set. I used to keep a clean towel on hand to lay over the work station and keep anything from my kit touching the surface, but I’ve recently taken up disposable station mats instead (aka disposable diaper changing mats...shhh). I also keep my face shield readily available so I can protect my clients and myself from the get-go.

I’ve had to completely reconsider how I pack everything in my kit. While I love my Zuca artist bags, many of them have fabric components to them that are difficult to completely sanitize. I’ve switched everything to non-porous, plastic containers for ease of disinfecting. Brush holders with flip lids are also something I’ve integrated into my kit, so that I can prevent any airborne contamination to my brushes while I’m working. Separate actor bags are also a great idea for keeping brushes and products you’ve used on one person contained. If you’re on a job that requires multiple touch ups, have a plastic palette with empty pans to scoop their products in, so you’re not constantly reaching for (and exposing) product out of your kit. My disposables are now stored in separate plastic baggies so that they don’t get exposed on set (I used to store them in a single box with dividers that I kept open on my work station).

And of course, I’ve been depotting my products like crazy. Not only does depotting save you a ton of space and weight in your kit, but it also keeps your products safe from contamination because you’re forced to safely transfer what you need onto a palette. Take this great advice from Grishan Roof, a makeup artist based in Los Angeles - set up your kit in a way that it forces you to stay sanitary. In addition to this, I have made the commitment to use mostly cream or liquid products for the time being. Generally it’s easier to transfer creams or liquids from their containers, therefore reducing the chances of cross-contamination. However, if I absolutely have to use any pressed powder products (like eyeshadows or blush), the safest way I’ve seen is to rub the pan with a lint-free cotton round, and pick up the pigment with a brush from the cotton round.

So my actual set up looks something like this:

Zineland Studios in Brooklyn, NY

My rule with my set ups now is to pull only what you will be using on your talent or client, and keep all other containers fully closed for the duration of the service. This practice will help minimize any contamination to ALL the products in your kit and will also be easier for you to keep track of what was used on your client. Once you’re finished, transfer everything that was used into their actor bag to keep it separated. If you forget something at the start of your service or need more of something, make sure your hands are completely sanitized before you go to grab it.

In addition to these practices, I will also be implementing two new practices with my clients:
1) review and sign a COVID-19 Declaration Form. This form briefly outlines safe behaviors and practices of both client and makeup artist during the service, and ensures that neither parties exhibit symptoms or has been exposed to the virus.
2) face the client or talent away from the work station of the makeup artist to prevent airborne contamination


So when the job is over, leave all the brushes you’ve used in their separate actor bags so you can do a proper deep clean at home. Clean the casing and any product you’ve used directly on clients (like brow pencils) with 70% alcohol. If you have any doubts about the cleanliness of any product, do NOT put it back into your kit in case they’ve accidentally become contaminated until you’re able to get home and reassess. As a courtesy for your client or production crew’s safety, sanitize your work area again once you’ve packed up your kit. Don’t forget the sides of tables, mirrors, and chairs!

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This is a learning process for all of us - makeup artist or not. It’s okay to feel overwhelmed. Just use your best judgment and inform that judgment from the professionals that study this stuff for a living. Things will change the more we gain understanding about this virus and its behaviors. If you’ve heard any great advice for sanitizing, or if you’re a makeup artist working in the new normal, what are some practices that you’ve used? Or maybe you’re in the regulating-your-breathing-in-a-paper-bag-stage like I was a few months ago; do you have any questions? I’d love to hear them in the comments below!

*Here is a link to most of the products I’ve purchased to restructure my kit. Not all of the products are exact, but some are very similar alternatives to things I picked up in stores pre-COVID: Kit Essentials

Makeup for the Minimalist

How to Streamline Your Makeup Routine & Declutter Your Makeup Bag

I often get asked the question, “Why did you want to become a makeup artist?”. One of the many answers is while I have a deep love for makeup, and love to play with and collect makeup - I personally don’t like to wear a ton of it. Which is why I love doing makeup for others because it allows me to play and tailor looks for my client’s personality and preferences.

Whether you’re looking for your go-to everyday look, are looking to scale down the products cluttering your vanity or makeup bag, or maybe you’re a beginner to makeup and are confused on where to start, approaching makeup with a minimalist mindset can be helpful to you. If you are overwhelmed on where to even begin, focus on the facial features you love about yourself and start there. The possibilities are limitless even with just a few choices, and you will always have the space to expand your arsenal and skills.

When I do my own makeup, I tend to go for more of a minimalist look. I love products that are simple to use and are multi-purpose. Something that I learned early on in my career is to read labels on your makeup products with a grain of salt. Meaning - if it says it’s a lipstick, it doesn’t have to be JUST a lipstick. Why can’t it also be a cream blush? It’s a great way to cut down on the products you use and to keep your colors coordinated (you can also save yourself some money if you’re just beginning to build your makeup collection). If the formula works for you, you don’t have to ascribe your product to be used for one thing!

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Here are my current favorites:

1) foundation & concealer
2) eyeshadow/highlighter/contour/bronzer
3) brow tint
4) lip scrub/balm/tint
5) blush/lippie & gloss
6) mascara
7) fragrance

THE BREAKDOWN:

1) Now that the weather is warmer and masks are mandated, I’ve taken a break from wearing a full face of foundation. It’s done wonders for my skin in all honesty. However, if you and foundation eau are still going strong, one of the best tips I can give is to find a foundation with some skin care benefits such as SPF or a built in moisturizer. You can lessen the amount of steps and layers you put on when you get ready in the morning! I’ve been relying more heavily on my concealer so that my skin can breathe more. If you prefer a lighter concealer to brighten under the eye, you can also use your concealer to brighten the high points of your face for a natural looking lift.

2) For the eyes, I typically stick to 2-3 colors to work with. One to brighten and swipe across the lid, one medium shade to apply in the crease of the eyes for depth, and the darkest shade to add definition to the eye (think eyeliner) or outer corners to transition to a nighttime look. Depending on the shade, you can use the lightest shade as a highlighter and the medium to deeper shades as a contour. If you can incorporate a warm tone in your eyeshadow selection then you can use the same shadow as a bronzer! My Dior Backstage Contour Palette is my complexion AND eyeshadow all in one, but you can choose individual eyeshadows that suit your skin tone and preference.

3) Brows. They intimidate a lot of people but are a quick and easy way to frame your face. I highly suggest to give this feature of yours some love when considering which features you want to accentuate. I love using a brow tint because it’s as easy as a swipe through my brow hairs, and will sometimes use my brow tint as a mascara if I want something softer than black. But if you like a little more shape, go for a pencil. You can easily use the same pencil as an eyeliner if you choose.

4) I love my lip balms. Nay, I NEED my lip balms. I have notoriously dry lips no matter the season. So when I discovered TINTED lip balms? My heart about melted. Tinted lip balms are great for a wash of color on the lips while also giving them some sweet, sweet hydration. They are also a great way to test out a bold shade that you might still be a little intimidated to try, since tints tend to run more sheer in color. My current favorite from Glow Recipe is a lip scrub, balm, and tint all in one. The holy grail.

5) With blush, my personal preference are cream or liquid formulas. They generally will melt into the skin better without the risk of a powder formula looking dry on the skin or fading throughout the day. I find I have more control over the intensity of color, blendability, and placement with cream or liquid formulas. Cream/liquid formulas also provide the flexibility of your blush product to be a (nicely coordinating) lippie. On the days I want a little bit more of a dressed up lip, I tap my cheek tint onto my lips and add some gloss on top.

6) Mascara is like the little black dress of your makeup wardrobe. A good one can be hard to find, but once you find yours, you’ll reach for it over and over again. Mascara is one of my staples, and I rarely leave my house without at least a touch of it on. Undoubtedly the easiest way to dress up your eyes is with a swipe of mascara, so if eyeshadow is scary for you or if you’re just not interested, invest in a great mascara. *Hint: if you love clear mascara, use it to set your brows after you fill or shape them!

7) For some, fragrance is not really considered part of their every day look. I definitely used to feel the same. When I started playing with fragrances, I realized how much the right fragrance can uplift my mood and confidence. A signature fragrance is like your finishing touch, it adds to the “story” of who you are and how you wish to present yourself to the world. Even if it’s just for a single moment, spritzing on your favorite fragrance is a moment for yourself, right before you walk out of your door to take on the world.

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At the end of the day, makeup is all up for interpretation by the wearer as they see fit. I personally love a natural and minimalistic look, where as others cannot see themselves leaving their house without a full beat and lashes. And that’s just as equally beautiful. There is no right or wrong way to wear or apply makeup. Experiment with what you have and see if you can wear your products in totally new ways. As a makeup artist, one of the things that makes my job so exciting is being able to push the boundaries of what I think a certain product can do in order to translate the artistic vision I have in my head. As Ms. Frizzle used to say in The Magic School Bus, “take chances, make mistakes!”. It’s only makeup.

Self Love Series [Flower in the Sun]

Welcome to the first look for my self love series!

The first phase I want to share with you is what I could consider my “hippie/raver” phase.

2013, I had asked to do a “Janis Joplin inspired” shoot.
photographer: Meagan Abell

THE BACKSTORY:

These years made up the last two years I was in college. I had always been a diligent student all throughout my life. High marks throughout high school, got into the college I wanted with early admission, and always held education at the highest priority.

But honestly I was on my way to being burnt out. My parents were proud of my accomplishments; I was on the precipice of graduating and a career in mental health. I felt no excitement anymore, and it felt like I was just going through the motions. 

I came home to Virginia for the summer after my junior year at college and got in touch with some old friends from high school. One in particular had been hearing about these music festivals where attendees would come out to these big empty fields, set up a tent, and dance and meet new people all weekend. The idea was so scary and intimidating for me at first. At the same time it was so enticing. It was something I never thought I would do because it was so opposite of everything from my experiences at that point. I decided to go.

THE IMPACT:

That weekend changed my life. I met so many people from all different walks of life. People that could so freely just live in that moment, genuinely enjoy music and each other’s company. It was like all guards were down, people watched out for each other and shared their supplies and shelter if one was without. I felt like I was in my own version of Woodstock and it was liberating. It opened up a new level of consciousness for me.

When I came home I wanted to emulate more of this in my life. I relaxed a little, I was open to more experiences and delved into astrology as a means to discover more about the complexities of my personality. When the time came to return to school, I continued to go to music festivals and raves (safely, of course). I fell in love with all of the color, the costumes people would wear, and the liberation of no holds barred self expression. This time of my life really solidified the belief for me that everyone has a right and space to express themselves exactly as they choose (and I still managed to graduate college in the top 15% of my class).

ART INFLUENCES:

I discovered and fell in love with Art Nouveau as an art movement around this time because it physically encapsulated all that I felt from this time. It is aesthetically beautiful, pulls design aspects from nature, and has a movement and flow to it that represents life itself. I was learning at this time to go more with the ebb and flow of life and to appreciate the beauty in everything that presented itself to me.

I also really fell in love with Janis Joplin. Her emotion was so palpable, her voice so raw without the frill of music “niceties”. She was the embodiment of living and expressing herself so authentically during her lifetime. The same could be said of Amy Winehouse, who I also started in heavy rotation on my playlist around this time.

BEHIND THE MAKEUP:

When I started this look, I wanted to incorporate the free flowing line work in Art Nouveau and the colorful palette from the raves I went to. Since these two worlds collided for me at the same time, I wanted to take elements from both and make one look out of them. I used a touch of blush colored eyeshadow for the cheeks, under the chin, and across the nose for that nostalgic summer sun-kissed touch. 

2020

PRODUCTS USED:
Suva Beauty Hydra Liner in “Space Panda”
Anastasia Beverly Hills Norvina Mini Pro Pigment Palette Vol. 1
Juvia’s Place The Tribe palette
Pat McGrath Mothership Subversive La Vie En Rose Palette
Benefit Gimme Brow in Shade 6
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Lip Pop
Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb in “Fenty Glow"
Mari Shten Beauty strip lashes in “MAYE” and individuals in “She’s Extra”

MY ESSENTIALS PLAYLIST:
Janis Joplin
old school house music
John Butler Trio
Jefferson Airplane
Zedd’s “Clarity” album
Amy Winehouse

MASKNE. Yes, it's a real thing and it's wrecking my face too.

Perhaps you’ve noticed you’ve been breaking out more around your jaw line, across the bridge of your nose, all over your chin, and around your cheeks a little more viciously than normal. Basically anywhere under where your mask lays on your face.

That my friend, is maskne.

Stylized Maskne. Maybe the new concealer trend?

So what is it?

Maskne, or scientifically dubbed, “acne mechanica” is acne caused by the friction of fabric against the skin. If you’re an athlete you’ve probably experienced these types of breakouts. Since masks are a new necessity with the outbreak of COVID-19, forgive us - we’re just now catching up.

Maskne can also be caused by the compound of excess moisture, sweat, dead skin cells, and oils trapped underneath our masks. Coupled with the heat and humidity of the summertime, this makes it damn near difficult for our skin to breathe. The friction of masks on our skin can also break down the skin’s barrier, making it more sensitive and lowering its ability to retain moisture from our skin care.

So what can I do?

*FULL DISCLOSURE: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, so if you have any questions about your skin type or are thinking of trying a new product, consult a medical professional. I’m just a makeup artist who loves skin care, and learned myself a thing or two.

1) Cleanse regularly

Use a mild cleanser that isn’t heavy with fragrance or foams up so that you won’t strip your skin’s barrier further (bonus points if it has acne fighting ingredients like salicylic acid. My current favorite is Murad’s Time Release Acne Cleanser). In between your trips outside, use a micellar water after your mask comes off. This will help to prevent buildup on your skin without over washing your face.

2) Keep your daytime skincare routine sweet and simple

Because the skin under our masks are unable to breathe, it’s best to keep the products to a minimum. Unfortunately, your tried and true 10-step skincare routine is probably overwhelming your skin and doing more harm than good with the restricted air flow. Keep your day time routine minimal, and use products that have a lightweight formulation. I’ve been dipping a lot into my water gel moisturizers, like the Belief Aqua Bomb Aloe Vera and the Moisturizing Eye Bomb. They absorb quickly into my skin and don’t leave a thick layer of product (if you’re particularly dry or need a little extra moisture, try spritzing with a face mist, like the Rosewater from Heritage Store before you leave your house). Save your active ingredients like retinol, AHAs, or BHAs for your nighttime routine.

3) Skip your makeup. Sincerely, a makeup artist.

Makeup is another layer that you can probably do without. If you wear makeup, not only will it likely rub off on your mask, but it’s just another layer of stuff getting trapped underneath. It’s also a really easy way to contaminate those cute masks you’ve been rocking. One positive of having to wear masks regularly is that the bottom half of your face is covered! If you absolutely can’t go without makeup, try opting for a tinted moisturizer, all the better if it has SPF. A popular choice is the Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, great for its lightweight formula.

4) Be mindful of the masks you choose

Cotton masks are the best option for breathability. They’re also easy to clean, super durable, and less likely to irritate your skin.

5) Mask Maintenance

You masks should be washed as often as possible. Try to have several in rotation so while one is in the wash or you’re waiting for it completely dry, you aren’t left without one. Be mindful of the detergent or soap you’re using to wash your masks too. Try to use a detergent without dyes or fragrances, as these ingredients can sit in the fabric that’s rubbing and pressing against your skin.

6) Treat Maskne at night

Topical treatments are a great option for targeting those pesky friends that have popped up on your face. Some of my favorites are the Peace Out Acne Healing Dots, Mario Badescu’s Drying Lotion, or your favorite retinol cream as a spot treatment (mine is the Drunk Elephant A-Passioni). You can also incorporate skincare products with AHAs. AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, help exfoliate the skin’s surface on a molecular level. This is beneficial because it helps your skin to rid itself of all the nastiness on its surface, but also exfoliating the top layers away help your skin to absorb your moisturizer more effectively.

7) Be kind to yourself

At the end of that day, we are going through a global pandemic. We are all anxious and stressed to a certain degree. Our “normal “ is in flux and we are all just trying to get through this. Please take care of yourself through your diet, getting plenty of sleep, drinking lots of water, taking time out to do something you love, or whatever self-care looks like to you. Your skin will bounce back and acne is t e m p o r a r y.

I hope y’all found this helpful. If you have any tips or tricks that worked for you, please share with a comment below! Otherwise, might I suggest covering breakouts with little pink hearts?

Corona Virus and the Makeup Chair

Hello all future and returning clients, talent, and production crews,

Yesterday marked Phase 2 of the reopening of NYC. While I’m excited to be heading back to work soon (I’ve been in self-isolation since the middle of March y’all!), I understand that moving forward must look different than prior services in order to ensure the safety of all clients/talent and anyone else on set. I wanted to write this post to open up the lines of communication with anyone who will be sitting in my chair in the future.

When I first began my career, the very first thing I researched were sanitary practices. I knew that by taking on the role of makeup artist, my first and highest responsibility was to ensure the health and safety of my clients. No one should leave any professional’s chair with negative repercussions due to neglect and miseducation of appropriate sanitary practices.

As some of you may already know, I decided to further my education in makeup artistry in 2017 by attending The Make-up Designory in New York City. I wanted to train at a top accredited school with instructors who had valuable experience working in the fashion and film industries. I knew I had made the right choice when the first lessons were dedicated to proper sanitation techniques, and were upheld throughout my training there. I learned more in depth about the chemistry of proper sanitation and further solidified the sanitation practices I had already been practicing throughout my career.

I understand that there will be a lot of anxiety and caution involved with makeup services as we continue to navigate post COVID-19. I use the phrase “post COVID-19” lightly, because at this point in time we have no factual evidence that the virus is completely eradicated. I encourage anyone who chooses me as their makeup artist to please feel free to ask me any questions.

I have used the time in self-quarantine to engage in multiple avenues of education in order to conduct makeup services that keeps everyone safe in this new normal. In addition to keeping my hands, tools, and products sanitized to prevent cross contamination, I will be taking additional cautionary measures to ensure the safest possible service.

Some practices I will be upholding moving forward:

• bringing a thermometer on set to ensure that my temperature is normal

• personally getting tested for COVID-19 to ensure my clients that I have returned to work negative

• requesting additional time from production or clients/talent to properly sanitize and disinfect before the first client, in between all clients/talent, and after production wraps

• sanitizing and disinfecting any and all surface areas that I will be working on, as well as the chairs that my clients will be sitting in

• working on disposable mats so that products and tools do not physically touch any surface area and will be changed between clients

• wearing a mask properly at all times while on set

• maintaining social distancing practices at all times while on set

• requesting that prior to any makeup service given, that all clients review and sign a COVID-19 Declaration Form, which further outlines safety practices that both the client and I as the makeup artist engage while we are in a service together, as well as the symptoms of COVID-19 so that any client may review and seek medical attention should they be experiencing any of these symptoms

• offering to reschedule a service for any client that may be experiencing symptoms or have had the possibility of exposure to COVID-19

I hope this provides some comfort to anyone reading this who is considering getting makeup services. As always my hope for my clients is that they feel confident leaving my chair, and this includes feeling confident that their service with me ensures their health and well-being.

See you soon,

Meeza

Self Love Series [An Intro]

I’m starting a self-love selfie series! 

Being in voluntary quarantine due to the COVID-19 outbreak, I began to reflect a lot about everything I’ve been through (with lots of time to think AND celebrating my 29th birthday, it didn’t take me long). 

I hope that by starting this blog, I get to show you a little bit more about me and the person behind the brushes. Everything I’ve been through influences my artistry, so before long I put two and two together. I’ve been through so many “phases” in my life so far, be it in music or style, etc. Everyone has been through their own fair share of phases too, I’m sure. Sometimes we fall into phases because we want to experiment with our identity, our expression of self. Other times we can get swept away by the movement or a feeling, and parts of our personality or what we’re experiencing in life at that time resonate in these movements.

Even if I’m not rocking the tie dye hippie skirts anymore or the Tripp pants with the chains, all of these phases influence my aesthetic as a creative.

I wanted to start this self-love series as a way to introduce all the facets of my personality, but also as a trip down memory lane, and to show love to the younger versions of me that didn’t have the technical skills or resources to fully express myself how I wanted to. Now I’m a makeup artist with tons of free time, so I hope you’ll enjoy this personal project of mine.

Meeza

My high school senior picture! 2009.

2020, still in love with teal hair.