Look Inside My Kit

Here we are in August and production work is beginning to open up in New York City. Which means, I get to go back to work!

There has been a lot of anxiety brewing within the professional beauty community on how to safely get back to work. For one, we have to work in such close proximity to our clients, so social distancing is not really an option for us. Two, there is such a limited amount of information pertaining to safety industry standards that we should be implementing for work in the new normal.

But we’re makeup artists, so problem solving is part of our job description, right? I have done the dance of late night research sessions, speaking with fellow industry professionals, sanitation and sterilization classes/certifications, and breathing in and out of a paper bag (haha). Only one thing seems to be consistent across the board - as we learn more about the nature of COVID-19, we’ll have to adjust our methods and our approach to how we service our clients. That, and wear a freaking mask!

First things first - whenever I am approached for a gig, I make sure that the client or production crew can accommodate the extra time I will need to properly clean, disinfect and sanitize my work station, tools, and products. Given the current climate, this is usually not an issue but is extremely important to bring attention to. Proper sanitation takes time, especially when accounting for proper contact time (the amount of time it takes for your disinfectants to fully sanitize).

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When I first arrive on set (with my mask on), the first things I pull out of my kit are the things that do exactly this. I have a pouch that contains disposable gloves, Clorox wipes, 70% alcohol, extra hand sanitizer, and disposable station mats. By having these readily available, it minimizes any contamination of my kit because I can disinfect my work station and talent chair right when I get to set. I used to keep a clean towel on hand to lay over the work station and keep anything from my kit touching the surface, but I’ve recently taken up disposable station mats instead (aka disposable diaper changing mats...shhh). I also keep my face shield readily available so I can protect my clients and myself from the get-go.

I’ve had to completely reconsider how I pack everything in my kit. While I love my Zuca artist bags, many of them have fabric components to them that are difficult to completely sanitize. I’ve switched everything to non-porous, plastic containers for ease of disinfecting. Brush holders with flip lids are also something I’ve integrated into my kit, so that I can prevent any airborne contamination to my brushes while I’m working. Separate actor bags are also a great idea for keeping brushes and products you’ve used on one person contained. If you’re on a job that requires multiple touch ups, have a plastic palette with empty pans to scoop their products in, so you’re not constantly reaching for (and exposing) product out of your kit. My disposables are now stored in separate plastic baggies so that they don’t get exposed on set (I used to store them in a single box with dividers that I kept open on my work station).

And of course, I’ve been depotting my products like crazy. Not only does depotting save you a ton of space and weight in your kit, but it also keeps your products safe from contamination because you’re forced to safely transfer what you need onto a palette. Take this great advice from Grishan Roof, a makeup artist based in Los Angeles - set up your kit in a way that it forces you to stay sanitary. In addition to this, I have made the commitment to use mostly cream or liquid products for the time being. Generally it’s easier to transfer creams or liquids from their containers, therefore reducing the chances of cross-contamination. However, if I absolutely have to use any pressed powder products (like eyeshadows or blush), the safest way I’ve seen is to rub the pan with a lint-free cotton round, and pick up the pigment with a brush from the cotton round.

So my actual set up looks something like this:

Zineland Studios in Brooklyn, NY

My rule with my set ups now is to pull only what you will be using on your talent or client, and keep all other containers fully closed for the duration of the service. This practice will help minimize any contamination to ALL the products in your kit and will also be easier for you to keep track of what was used on your client. Once you’re finished, transfer everything that was used into their actor bag to keep it separated. If you forget something at the start of your service or need more of something, make sure your hands are completely sanitized before you go to grab it.

In addition to these practices, I will also be implementing two new practices with my clients:
1) review and sign a COVID-19 Declaration Form. This form briefly outlines safe behaviors and practices of both client and makeup artist during the service, and ensures that neither parties exhibit symptoms or has been exposed to the virus.
2) face the client or talent away from the work station of the makeup artist to prevent airborne contamination


So when the job is over, leave all the brushes you’ve used in their separate actor bags so you can do a proper deep clean at home. Clean the casing and any product you’ve used directly on clients (like brow pencils) with 70% alcohol. If you have any doubts about the cleanliness of any product, do NOT put it back into your kit in case they’ve accidentally become contaminated until you’re able to get home and reassess. As a courtesy for your client or production crew’s safety, sanitize your work area again once you’ve packed up your kit. Don’t forget the sides of tables, mirrors, and chairs!

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This is a learning process for all of us - makeup artist or not. It’s okay to feel overwhelmed. Just use your best judgment and inform that judgment from the professionals that study this stuff for a living. Things will change the more we gain understanding about this virus and its behaviors. If you’ve heard any great advice for sanitizing, or if you’re a makeup artist working in the new normal, what are some practices that you’ve used? Or maybe you’re in the regulating-your-breathing-in-a-paper-bag-stage like I was a few months ago; do you have any questions? I’d love to hear them in the comments below!

*Here is a link to most of the products I’ve purchased to restructure my kit. Not all of the products are exact, but some are very similar alternatives to things I picked up in stores pre-COVID: Kit Essentials

MASKNE. Yes, it's a real thing and it's wrecking my face too.

Perhaps you’ve noticed you’ve been breaking out more around your jaw line, across the bridge of your nose, all over your chin, and around your cheeks a little more viciously than normal. Basically anywhere under where your mask lays on your face.

That my friend, is maskne.

Stylized Maskne. Maybe the new concealer trend?

So what is it?

Maskne, or scientifically dubbed, “acne mechanica” is acne caused by the friction of fabric against the skin. If you’re an athlete you’ve probably experienced these types of breakouts. Since masks are a new necessity with the outbreak of COVID-19, forgive us - we’re just now catching up.

Maskne can also be caused by the compound of excess moisture, sweat, dead skin cells, and oils trapped underneath our masks. Coupled with the heat and humidity of the summertime, this makes it damn near difficult for our skin to breathe. The friction of masks on our skin can also break down the skin’s barrier, making it more sensitive and lowering its ability to retain moisture from our skin care.

So what can I do?

*FULL DISCLOSURE: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, so if you have any questions about your skin type or are thinking of trying a new product, consult a medical professional. I’m just a makeup artist who loves skin care, and learned myself a thing or two.

1) Cleanse regularly

Use a mild cleanser that isn’t heavy with fragrance or foams up so that you won’t strip your skin’s barrier further (bonus points if it has acne fighting ingredients like salicylic acid. My current favorite is Murad’s Time Release Acne Cleanser). In between your trips outside, use a micellar water after your mask comes off. This will help to prevent buildup on your skin without over washing your face.

2) Keep your daytime skincare routine sweet and simple

Because the skin under our masks are unable to breathe, it’s best to keep the products to a minimum. Unfortunately, your tried and true 10-step skincare routine is probably overwhelming your skin and doing more harm than good with the restricted air flow. Keep your day time routine minimal, and use products that have a lightweight formulation. I’ve been dipping a lot into my water gel moisturizers, like the Belief Aqua Bomb Aloe Vera and the Moisturizing Eye Bomb. They absorb quickly into my skin and don’t leave a thick layer of product (if you’re particularly dry or need a little extra moisture, try spritzing with a face mist, like the Rosewater from Heritage Store before you leave your house). Save your active ingredients like retinol, AHAs, or BHAs for your nighttime routine.

3) Skip your makeup. Sincerely, a makeup artist.

Makeup is another layer that you can probably do without. If you wear makeup, not only will it likely rub off on your mask, but it’s just another layer of stuff getting trapped underneath. It’s also a really easy way to contaminate those cute masks you’ve been rocking. One positive of having to wear masks regularly is that the bottom half of your face is covered! If you absolutely can’t go without makeup, try opting for a tinted moisturizer, all the better if it has SPF. A popular choice is the Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, great for its lightweight formula.

4) Be mindful of the masks you choose

Cotton masks are the best option for breathability. They’re also easy to clean, super durable, and less likely to irritate your skin.

5) Mask Maintenance

You masks should be washed as often as possible. Try to have several in rotation so while one is in the wash or you’re waiting for it completely dry, you aren’t left without one. Be mindful of the detergent or soap you’re using to wash your masks too. Try to use a detergent without dyes or fragrances, as these ingredients can sit in the fabric that’s rubbing and pressing against your skin.

6) Treat Maskne at night

Topical treatments are a great option for targeting those pesky friends that have popped up on your face. Some of my favorites are the Peace Out Acne Healing Dots, Mario Badescu’s Drying Lotion, or your favorite retinol cream as a spot treatment (mine is the Drunk Elephant A-Passioni). You can also incorporate skincare products with AHAs. AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, help exfoliate the skin’s surface on a molecular level. This is beneficial because it helps your skin to rid itself of all the nastiness on its surface, but also exfoliating the top layers away help your skin to absorb your moisturizer more effectively.

7) Be kind to yourself

At the end of that day, we are going through a global pandemic. We are all anxious and stressed to a certain degree. Our “normal “ is in flux and we are all just trying to get through this. Please take care of yourself through your diet, getting plenty of sleep, drinking lots of water, taking time out to do something you love, or whatever self-care looks like to you. Your skin will bounce back and acne is t e m p o r a r y.

I hope y’all found this helpful. If you have any tips or tricks that worked for you, please share with a comment below! Otherwise, might I suggest covering breakouts with little pink hearts?